Reconnu comme l’unique festival spécialisé dans le créneau du film sur l’art en Amérique, et en tant que le plus important de sa catégorie au monde, le Festival International du Film sur l’Art (FIFA) est devenu, au fil des ans, un leader sur la scène culturelle internationale.
Charles James, born 1906 – died 1978
Miss Baba Beaton wore this dress when she married Mr Alec Hambro on 6 November 1934. It is an early example of the work of the designer Charles James. It anticipates later developments in his style, particularly his approach to complex cut. The beauty of the design lies in its deceptive simplicity and the designer’s complete understanding of the potential of the fabric.
Darts and seams shape the smooth ivory satin, which clings and drapes around the body in order to enhance the graceful figure. James said, ‘all my seams have meaning – they emphasise something about the body’.
Circumference: 66 cm waist, Circumference: 84 cm bust, Circumference: 68 cm diaphragm, Length: 150 cm overall, Length: 40 cm to waist, Width: 40 cm centre back, Width: 42 cm shoulder to shoulder, Length: 62 cm sleeve, over, Length: 52 cm sleeve, under, Circumference: 80 cm hips, Circumference: 18 cm wrist
Silk satin, trimmed with wax orange-blossom, cut on the bias
Although he was born in Britain, James worked as a milliner and custom dressmaker in New York between 1924 and 1929. In 1929 he opened premises in London. During the early 1930s he travelled extensively between London and Paris, establishing a Paris branch in 1934. Like Elsa Schiaparelli he was a friend of the Surrealist painter Salvador Dalí and made use of Surrealist influences in his designs.
- KNOW YOUR FASHION HISTORY: Charles James, America’s Finest Couturier (fashiontribes.typepad.com)
- Meryle Secrest Discusses New Elsa Schiaparelli Biography (wwd.com)
- Not making the final cut (thehindu.com)
- today’s birthday: Elsa Schiaparelli (1890) (euzicasa.wordpress.com)
- Review: ‘Edward Steichen and Art Deco Fashion’ at the National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne (artblart.com)
- Charles James: Beyond Fashion’ at the Metropolitan Museum (wnyc.org)
- Charles James, the First American Couturier was an Egomaniac (agnautacouture.com)
- Vintage Style Icons: Elsa Schiaparelli (weheartvintage.co)
- Master of the robes: Charles James exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York (fashion.telegraph.co.uk)
- Finlayson Sew-Along: Preparing your pattern and fabric (threadtheoryblog.wordpress.com)
Evening dress and sleeve
Christian Lacroix, born 1951
This spectacular dress was given to the Victoria and Albert Museum very shortly after its first appearance on Lacroix’s catwalk in the autumn 1996 Paris fashion shows.
Christian Lacroix opened his haute couture house in 1986. His luxurious fashions, typified by this hooped evening dress, reflect an abiding passion for historical styles, ornate textiles, and elaborate decoration, all of which he translates in a contemporary idiom.
In a striking palette of acidic yellow and pastels, the dress forms part of Lacroix’s “18th-Century Haute Couture Collection,” which draws on a wide range of pre-1968 fashion references. Lacroix describes this collection as elegant and slightly dishevelled: “Nothing seems to be held in place. The fabric is wrapped. It pirouettes around obstinately asymmetrical necklines.”
Place of Origin: Paris, France (made)
Date: 1996 (designed)
Artist/maker: Lacroix, Christian, born 1951 (designer)
Materials and Techniques: Chiné-printed silk taffeta and lace, embroidered with sequins, pastes and beads
Dimensions: [Evening dress] Length: 150 cm, Circumference: 70 cm bust, Circumference: 62 cm waist, Circumference: 170 cm hoop, maximum
- Lacroix to Design Special Collection for Schiaparelli (runway.blogs.nytimes.com)
- The Gorgeous Haute Couture by Abed Mahfouz 2015 (fashiondivadesign.com)
- Paris Haute Couture autumn/winter 2013 (fashion.telegraph.co.uk)
- Hotels for Fashion Week (foxnews.com)
- Paris Haute Couture: Chanel spring/summer 2013 (dailyrecord.co.uk)
- Adriana Lima Rocks the Desigual Spring 2015 Runway Show (fashiongonerogue.com)
- Couture history goes under the hammer at Christie’s (guardian.co.uk)
- You: How Christian Lacroix Went Bust (newsweek.com)
- Christian Lacroix Brings Elsa Schiaparelli Back to Life (thefashionistyle.com)
- Christian Lacroix: ‘I am not nostalgic for the past’ (guardian.co.uk)
Date: late 1940s–early 1950s
Dimensions: L at CB: 49 in. (124.5 cm)