#ThrowbackFashion Evening dress, black silk velvet with diamante and pearl collar, by Catherine Walker @CatwalkerCo, UK, 1994

Evening dress, 1994
Catherine Walker born 1945

Evening dress, black silk velvet with diamante and pearl collar, by Catherine Walker, UK, 1994.-2011EN2396_jpg_l

Evening dress, black silk velvet with diamante and pearl collar, by Catherine Walker, UK, 1994.-2006AU2412_jpg_l

This evening dress, made in 1994 by the London couturier Catherine Walker, shows her use of glamour and restrained luxury. Rich, black silk velvet is cut and sewn into a perfect full-length backless sheath suspended from a pearl and diamanté yoke. Both the clinging gown and the Art Deco style jewelled collar were inspired by 1930s evening fashion, but the design is brought wholly up-to-date for 1994 with a dramatic diamanté pendant down the bared back.

Evening dress, black silk velvet with diamante and pearl collar, by Catherine Walker, UK, 1994.-2011EN2395_jpg_l

Evening dress, black silk velvet with diamante and pearl collar, by Catherine Walker, UK, 1994.-2006AU2411_jpg_l

This combination of regal elegance and unexpected sparkle clearly shows why Diana, Princess of Wales, favoured dresses by Catherine Walker for nearly fifteen years. The V&A collection also includes the famous pearl-encrusted ‘Elvis’ dress that Catherine Walker made for the Princess in 1989. (see T.1:1&2.2006)

Evening dress, black silk velvet with diamante and pearl collar, by Catherine Walker, UK, 1994.-2006AU2410_jpg_l

Here are some creative projects that inspire me in Victoria and Albert Museum Archive. You can see other projects on my Pinterest or on my #ThrowbackFashion.

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#ThrowbackFashion Kiss of death, black satin bonnet with pheasant feathers, designed by Jo Gordan, Britain, 1994

Kiss of Death – Bonnet, 1994 
Jo Gordan, born 1967

#ThrowbackFashion Kiss of death, black satin bonnet with pheasant feathers, designed by Jo Gordan, Britain, 1994-2008BU3447_jpg_l

Jo Gordon has taken the traditional structure of a poke bonnet to extremes. The long, menacing feathers project forward over two feet in a tunnel-like brim, which almost obscures the face. Gordon initially trained as a fine artist, studying sculpture at Grays School of Art in Aberdeen. She then undertook a two-year millinery course at the Royal College of Art. After 1995 Gordon branched out into knitwear, an area in which she continues to specialise and experiment.

#ThrowbackFashion Kiss of death, black satin bonnet with pheasant feathers, designed by Jo Gordan, Britain, 1994-2008BU3474_jpg_l

Dimensions
Height: 170 mm, Width: 240 mm, Depth: 700 mm

#ThrowbackFashion Kiss of death, black satin bonnet with pheasant feathers, designed by Jo Gordan, Britain, 1994-2006BC8675_jpg_l

Here are some creative projects that inspire me in Victoria and Albert Museum Archive. You can see other projects on my Pinterest or on my #ThrowbackFashion.

#ThrowbackFashion Evening dress ‘Bird’s Wing’ of white silk taffeta, designed by Antony Price, England, 1986

Bird’s Wing
Antony Price, born 1945

#ThrowbackFashion Evening dress 'Bird's Wing' of white silk taffeta, designed by Antony Price, England, 1986-2006AU1675_jpg_l

Closely swathing the figure, the silk taffeta of this dramatically structured garment is formed into large, irregular gathers diagonally positioned across the front. These culminate in an asymmetrical bodice, with an extraordinary, gravity defying shoulder extension. Designer Antony Price called this his ‘Bird’s Wing’ dress; the rigid folds of fabric with their feathered and serrated edge evoke associations of flight and movement. It was designed for his 1986 Winter collection.

#ThrowbackFashion Evening dress 'Bird's Wing' of white silk taffeta, designed by Antony Price, England, 1986-2006BF2615_jpg_l

The simple, white taffeta, with its glossy, reflective sheen offsets the complex structure of the garment. The designer’s choice of a stiff fabric allows the raised folds to retain their shape and make the dress virtually self-supporting. The folds are held in place by large, self-covered buttons which secure the dress at the side, and also provide an important visual motif. In contrast the back is quite plain, a simple bodice with a single shoulder strap and a straight, skirt fitted with darts into the waist seam.

#ThrowbackFashion Evening dress 'Bird's Wing' of white silk taffeta, designed by Antony Price, England, 1986-2006BC1929_jpg_l

Here are some creative projects that inspire me in Victoria and Albert Museum Archive. You can see other projects on my Pinterest or on my #ThrowbackFashion.

#ThrowbackFashion Evening dress in chiné-printed and embroidered silk taffeta and lace, and machine-lace sleeve, designed by Christian Lacroix @Maison_Lacroix, Paris 1996

Evening dress and sleeve
Christian Lacroix, born 1951

This spectacular dress was given to the Victoria and Albert Museum very shortly after its first appearance on Lacroix’s catwalk in the autumn 1996 Paris fashion shows.

#ThrowbackFashion Evening dress by Christian Lacroix, Paris 1996-2011EN2353_jpg_l

Christian Lacroix opened his haute couture house in 1986. His luxurious fashions, typified by this hooped evening dress, reflect an abiding passion for historical styles, ornate textiles, and elaborate decoration, all of which he translates in a contemporary idiom.

#ThrowbackFashion Evening dress by Christian Lacroix, Paris 1996-2011EN2354_jpg_l

In a striking palette of acidic yellow and pastels, the dress forms part of Lacroix’s “18th-Century Haute Couture Collection,” which draws on a wide range of pre-1968 fashion references. Lacroix describes this collection as elegant and slightly dishevelled: “Nothing seems to be held in place. The fabric is wrapped. It pirouettes around obstinately asymmetrical necklines.”

#ThrowbackFashion Evening dress by Christian Lacroix, Paris 1996-2011EN2348_jpg_l

Place of Origin: Paris, France (made)
Date: 1996 (designed)
Artist/maker: Lacroix, Christian, born 1951 (designer)
Materials and Techniques: Chiné-printed silk taffeta and lace, embroidered with sequins, pastes and beads
Dimensions: [Evening dress] Length: 150 cm, Circumference: 70 cm bust, Circumference: 62 cm waist, Circumference: 170 cm hoop, maximum

Here are some creative projects that inspire me in Victoria and Albert Museum Archives. You can see other projects on my Pinterest or on my #ThrowbackFashion.

#ThrowbackFashion Organdie strapless dress ‘Seashell’ with a flared asymmetrical skirt, designed by John @GallianOfficial, Great Britain, 1988

Seashell Dress, 1988
John Galliano, born 1960

John Galliano is celebrated for his ingenious approach to dress design. Evoking the crisp and sculptural qualities of scallop shells, this dress has a circular petal skirt composed of concentric rows of overlapping and meandering bands of bias-cut organdie. The strapless, boned bodice is relieved by a deep cummerbund of checked cotton.

#ThrowbackFashion Seashell Dress, 1988 - John Galliano-2006AU1676_jpg_l - Copy

Physical description
White organdie strapless dress with a flared asymmetrical skirt. Accessorised with a green and white checked cotton sash. Bias cut organdie with boned bodice.

#ThrowbackFashion Seashell Dress, 1988 - John Galliano-2006AU1678_jpg_l - Copy

Materials and Techniques
Bias cut organdie with a boned bodice and cotton sash

#ThrowbackFashion Seashell Dress, 1988 - John Galliano-2006AU1677_jpg_l - Copy

Here are some creative projects that inspire me in Victoria and Albert Museum Archives. You can see other projects on my Pinterest or on my #ThrowbackFashion.

Photo: collections.vam.ac.uk